Harry and Paulene Foster
June 1, 1974
The seed for this trip came from our bicycle trip from Ottawa to Mexico in 1970. For that trip we wanted an adventure in going back to New Zealand for me to meet Paulene's family and perhaps stay for awhile. In this case we figured we had to have an adventure going back to Ottawa in Canada and a more settled life of work, and who knows...family maybe? We thought let's canoe from Sault Ste Marie to Ottawa. We had never done a canoe trip of any kind let alone one that was 820 miles long. We did have camping gear though from our many tramping trips in the mountains of New Zealand. We thought as well, let's go across country from Vancouver by train to make it even more exciting as Paulene had not done that yet and I was only 6 years old when I last did a cross Canada trip by train. The trip across was a treat for the scenery of course, and the luxury of the train itself, from the accommodation, the observation cars, bar car etc etc. We got off that train in Sudbury and took a Bunt train from there to the Sault. We no sooner got seated and settled in when the conductor came around and besides taking our tickets, asked us if we would like to come up front and meet the engineer. He did not have to ask us twice. They were such nice guys and we rode up there for over 100 miles, they telling us of life on the rails, the unavoidable accidents they sometimes had with animals, and the people they met. They even let Paulene drive the train for a bit and do the traditional horn before a level crossing. Here is Paulene at the controls. One always has to have their foot on the 'dead man's brake'. This in case the engineer had a heart attack or some other event and fell off his seat. The train would come to a stop pretty quickly if such a thing happened. Paulene writing. We arrived at the Soo at 12 noon and after a walk around the down town, rented a car so we could see who was selling canoes and what kinds. We also checked into the River View Motel right across from Belle View Park where we would start paddling. We also went to the Post Office to pick up the Maps that my dad had sent to us care of General Delivery. Because of the length of the trip we had to make do with 1-250,000 scale Topo maps. Now we needed a canoe. We phoned around some of the sports shops to get ideas and opinions of various canoes based on the trip we planned. After long talks with Marvin and Bill of Currie Sports and others, we decided to try out the Grumman 15 ft. Aluminum and the Scott 15.5 ft. fiberglass models. They were both well designed from the standpoint of stability and load carrying capacity. It came down to a couple of points. The Grumman was noisy on the water and it transmitted the very cold water of this area to us in the canoe, where the Scott was quieter and felt more comfortable regarding the water temperature. We went back to the shop and picked out the one we wanted and some rope. The cost came to $214.00 with tax, a great deal as we planned on spending $350. Back to the motel and some final shopping and supper. Harry is most impressed with the quantity and quality of the young gals riding 10 speed bikes in the Soo, his eyes have been popping out. Up early next morning and after a quick tidy up Harry went up town to buy a good Silva Orienteering compass which is very accurate when using the Topo maps. It took us three trips to get all our gear from the Motel across the road to Belle View Park where we were to start paddling. Time 11am. Here is Paulene with our loaded canoe ready to go. We were wondering how the canoe would manage the rather large load we packed into it, but we were soon put at ease as the canoe handled it very well. We started off in a calm which was nice. We had ideal conditions for a couple of hours and we did 10 miles or so and stopped for lunch. After lunch the wind picked up and it wasn't long before we got into Lake George that the wind became a problem. As the wind was coming right up the lake which is around 12 miles long, we were getting some rather large waves, and as we had to go to the eastern shore we were going across the wind. Finally the wind and waves forced us to shore as we were shipping more and more water as the waves were getting bigger and bigger and breaking into the canoe. The place were we went ashore is the Garden River First Nation park, which was very handy. First days mileage for 4 hours paddling=15 miles. Paulene writing now. We are now caught by the winds again so we are taking as small repose on someone's cottage lawn. It is now Wednesday June 6 and our third day of the canoe trip. After we left the First Nation's park yesterday, we had the most fabulous time as the conditions were perfect. We set off around 7am after a good muesli breakfast. There was a beautiful mist over the lake and you could barely see the far shore where we were headed. The paddles dipping in the the water were the only human sounds but the birds were really going to town. Paulene's paddling contract states that every hour she can take a 5 minute break. Here she is relaxing,watching me paddle and watching the world go by. We were lucky enough to catch sight of our first loon who gave us quick glance then resumed his fishing. Later there were quite a lot of fishermen about so they must know what lies under the surface. :-) After Lake George we were just approaching East Neebish Island when Harry spotted a beautiful white duck sitting on a log. We paddled over and saw there were a pair of them. They also spotted us and proceeded to exit, but not before we were able to get a great view of them both. No photo :-( In the middle of Lake George there was a colony of nesting seagulls and boy did they go crook at us as we got closer, even to the extent of diving as close as they could to us. I raised my paddle over my head to protect us until we got out of their space. Phew! We found a lovely little island for lunch and by this time the weather was so gorgeous The paddling was so easy and warm, we stripped down a bit and enjoyed it and found a nice place for lunch on an Island too. The water is still too cold for swimming especially after the waters of Hawaii. Off we go again enjoying a peaceful paddle but by 2pm when we approached St. Joseph's Channel, the wind came up swamping strong, so we landed at a small island hoping to set off again when the wind eased. Harry writing We figured that the same thing would happen as the night before, that is when around 7pm the winds would die down and you could do a couple of more hours of paddling. In this case though the winds did not behave as they were supposed to and they continued on unabated. At 8:30pm we headed out, not really expecting to do a great mileage but mainly to find a decent place to sleep. This we found about a mile away. It was an Island which had a old trailer on it which was used for a fishing camp or something. Anyway, there was a good spot for us to pitch our tent and we soon settled in for a good nights sleep. Paulene had a little trouble however, dreaming of African Maasai tribesmen attacking her and also a lion nearly attracted her. This morning we awoke to a strong east wind which meant we had to paddle right into the teeth of it. So, we had a lazy breakfast and took our time in packing the canoe hoping against hope the wind would ease. It didn't. I used this time to go over the map and practice my compass and map work. Finally around nine we set off anyway and soon found out we should have stayed ashore. The waves were very big and we shipped a little water. Paulene gets quite wet in conditions like this as the spray comes over the side and she collects it. We ended up only going a mile or so and found a sheltered area and pulled up at a cottage which had not yet had it special look of peacefulness spoiled by the influx of holiday makers. I spoke to an older man in a cottage near by, asking if he thought it would be OK if we came ashore here for awhile. During the course of the conversation I found out that his son had done a tour of New Zealand a year ago as an entertainer. His son's name is Gary Buck and he is a well know Country and Western singer, now in the Canadian Country Music Hall of fame. Paulene writing Today is Saturday June 8th and we are in the Thessalon "Welcome Wash" washing a few clothes. Since Thursday night when we camped on the cottage lawn, the following has occurred. First off Mrs. Buck was terrifically kind in that she came over with some butter tarts she had baked for us with a terrific note besides. We played with a couple of chipmunks, had a nice sleep in the afternoon. After a short walk after supper went to bed early hoping for a wind change in the morning. No change in the morning, so we thought we would just try and get around the corner to find a better place to camp due to the poor toilet facilities on the lawn. Anyway we finally made it round the corner, waves were high and I got my usual soaking. We found a pretty little cove complete with private bush, dock and even a barbecue. Harry went and asked the owner if we could stay until the weather eased. He was a very sweet man from Cleaveland. His wife was also very charming and we had a terrific day waiting for the wind to drop. Harry writing For supper Friday we had Perch which we had caught during the afternoon. Altogether we had six of them, very tasty if a little bony. During cooking of our supper, the rain came down and we must have looked a sight standing there in front of the old outdoor stove waiting for the fish to cook. After tea we went and paid a visit to Mr. and Mrs. Ahlering and had a terrific time. Their cottage is 28 years old with a lot of charm. The living room is all natural wood and had an enormous fireplace. We all sat around the fire with a Sherry and had a good old yak. During the night it rained and blew something awful, but with our new fly on the tent we were completely dry and cosy. I woke up around six and looked out at the lake to see the wind coming from the SW :-). Boy, then there was some activity as we broke camp and made a big breakfast. Saturday June 8 Today was our best day so far as regards miles covered. Paulene writing What wind there was dropped away completely and we were able to make Thessalon by the evening. The day started off very misty and we were caught in a terrific shower of rain but the sun soon came out and dried us off. In the morning we saw a number of abandoned cottages mostly beautiful big old stately ones which are possibly to expensive to upgrade these days. We went and explored one and it was simply huge. At one point as we were coasting along between a couple of islands Harry noticed a mouse in the canoe. He managed to put in on the end of his paddle to toss it ashore,but it fell off the paddle and with no trouble managed to swim to shore. Later on I discovered where it had been in my pack as it had eaten through two blouses and made a hole in the pack too, the little bugger. We were lucky at Thessalon as there was a campground on the waters edge so we were able to shower, change and tidy ourselves up before walking into town to the laundry, a restaurant and a food store to restock. Altogether a great day. Sunday June 9 and the south easter was still blowing. We left anyway and struggled getting around the Thessalon point. We ended up at a small boat dock which was so infected with bugs it has to be seen to be imagined. I was feeling cold and miserable and Harry paddled most of the next 8 miles around lots of rocks and shoals, which afforded us some protection from the wind and waves. Finally we reached a very exposed point and could go no further. We took shelter on the boat dock of a millionaire type summer cottage. His name is apparently Hacket and he isn't too popular in the area. Well, it then proceeded to thunder and rain harder and we took shelter under a small verandah thereby escaping the worst of it. We were still quite cold when it finally abated enough and we could round the point in search of a more appropriate camp spot. One island we thought uninhabited did in fact have a cottage on it. We knocked on the door to be almost bowled over by an enormous English Sheepdog, owned by straight man, a gay guy and a transvestite, all on this little island in the middle of nowhere. They said we could camp there but also showed us where we might find something more suitable. We set off and finally found a pretty little island covered with spring flowers and also to our delight two birds nests, one small one with 4 little blue eggs and a larger one with 2 large specked eggs. After setting up our camp, we had a lovely sleep and didn't wake until late. Monday June 10 Still a ghastly SE wind, so once again we didn't get too far. We are camped on another small island that is quite sheltered and cosy. This gave us a chance to dry our socks and shoes over a fire. Today is Tuesday June 11 and we won't be going anywhere today as the wind and waves are too strong. Harry is fishing and I must write to Mum. Harry writing Well we ended up spending two nights on this little island as the weather was just unreal. However we decided we would have to continue on regardless as our food supply was fast dwindling. The bugs here were quite bad as you can see as Paulene prepares a meal. So on Wednesday morning we set off. The wind was blowing very strong from the West SW. We had a very long point to go around just 3/4 of a mile from the island, but as this would put us out into the extremely rough waters, we decided to portage through the point. Later on however we still had to deal with that very rough stuff as it was the only way forward. I think I can honestly say I haven't been in fresh water that rough in any kind of boat much less a canoe. But, our little canoe is very stable and I feel very confident with it. We still shipped a lot of spray and a few times some green water would come aboard. To add to the excitement was that along the is coast there are all kinds of rocks and shoals just under the surface of the water. If you are going into the wind they are reasonably easy to spot as the waves would break over them. But when you are running before a strong wind with big seas it is extremely exhilarating to be surfing along on the crest of a wave looking down and all of a sudden you see rocks just under the surface on both sides of you. It was an experience one won't soon forget. I wouldn't however like to have wind and waves like that for too many days as they are very tiring. We got to within about 3.5 miles of Blind River when we had to head for shore again because of of the extreme conditions. From our map we saw that we could go up a little river for about 1.5 miles and then down another which would bring us back to the North Channel, but about 1 mile closer to Blind River. While waiting at this second river mouth we spoke to a couple of fishermen and they showed us where we could go on a little channel used by a logging CO. This would take us up to within 1/2 mile of town. The only snag was that there were two portages. The channel that we were in for the last 2.5 to 3 miles was inhabited by a ridiculous number of beavers. We would never have believed the destruction these little monsters could get up to had we not seen it with our own eyes, it was like Vietnam. Talk about defoliation. There were trees down everywhere and just over from us were was another little channel and all along as we passed we would hear the thump thump as the beavers slapped their tails on the water and dived to safer territory. Well, hello again Diary. Monday June 17, Harry writing This entry is being started at Little Current where we are now. We had a good time in Blind River. When we arrived, there was a Motel right at the waters edge and the weather being so miserable, we decided to check in. We found out that night that we were much more comfortable sleeping in our then that were were in a proper bed. It must be the fresh air. We had diner at a restaurant we we both ordered a salmon steak at $3.10, but when the girl came with our super there staring at us were two big T bone steaks worth $5.75. So, we had a rather nice meal for a cheaper price that it would normally cost. :-) We did all our shopping in the morning and checked out of the motel at 11am. I even managed to get a replacement topographical map for me that I had lost just before getting into Blind River. So we were away again at noon with a real strong westerly blowing. It soon became apparent that we would have to stop as we were taking quite a lot of water aboard. So we took shelter on a beach and soaked up a little sun and read our books. Just before coming to the beach where we took shelter we came racing around an exposed point riding the tops of huge waves like a surfboard when we soon spotted a huge old steel hulled boat that had grounded on the rocks in a sheltered area. It must have been too well grounded to salvage it as it looked like it had been there a few years at least. In the evening with wind died away a little bit so we could go about a mile out to an island to camp. The Island was called Sanford Island. It really was quite beautiful as we had a terrific sunset with beavers and ducks swimming real close to us as we were having a coffee before hitting the sack. Paulene writing The next day was a very good one for canoeing even with a slight head wind most of the day, but the sun shone bright, so we were happy. We called into Moiles Mills on John Island but there was nobody home. Weather turned rather foul later in the day and eventually we camped on Aird Island itself. This area is called the North Channel and is beautiful beyond words, a chain of island from Blind River to Little Current. Paulene enjoying the amazing view of the North Channel islands. It is now a favorite area for sailboat cruising and we have been back on short canoe trips specifically to enjoy the amazing scenery and Islands. We camped on Aird Island, We had a thunder storm at night, but no worries to us as the new fly on the tent works great. Because of the storm we did not get away too early the next day. We crossed to Crooks Island and it was foggy and chilly. We followed down Eagle Island to the Benjamins encountering rather high waves en route. The Benjemins were fabulous as it was the first time we had seen the pink rounded rocks shaped by glaciers no doubt, which we have found more of in this neck of the woods. We camped there over night and left once again in a dense fog. It was calm though and we made good time and photographed one of a few lighthouses protecting these rocky shoal strewn shores. We passed many other islands and eventually arrived at Little Current and camped at a campground of sorts about a mile from town. In the morning we paddled to the town dock and were thrilled to see all the services available right by the water. Did a laundry and were most surprised to meet up with one of the women we had met on the cross country train "The Canadian". Also talked with some yachties and some other young people and enjoyed this little touch of civilization again before we paddled on our way again, but didn't get too far because of high waves. We sheltered all afternoon on a boat dock of an abandoned house. Later on made it to another island for the night, and woke to a downpour so Harry spent his birthday in bed until 11am eating peanut butter sandwiches and locorice for breakfast. After the rain stopped there was 2 hours of hard paddling round a big point. Any big point of land or the point of an island have to be handled with care as the waves sometimes increase going around or the waves bounce back at you and cause a more difficult situation than the large waves alone. After passing along many beautiful islands we portaged on a voyageur portage. This is always fun as you imagine yourself walking in the footsteps of history. Here is Harry in the canoe coming in to the start of the Portage, The Portage was from Frazer Bay to Killarney Bay across the Badgeley Point. Then we hit windy Killarney. Killarney presented an attractive mix of old docks, buildings and a fabulous old shop where we did buy a few more goodies, even butter tarts. Leaving Killarney on the narrow channel it is situated on then rounding the point where we stopped for a few hours in the sun washing our clothes and ourselves too. Lovely pools of warm water formed in these beautiful Canadian shield rocks that abound in the area. When the wind died down we paddled off across the first part of Georgian Bay and how beautiful it was. We camped on a rocky island (they all are) but Harry found a nice soft bed of moss for the tent. After a relaxing meal we felt like our old selves after all the rough conditions we had experienced previously. Harry writing Off again in the morning about 10am in very nice conditions, the sun was out and the sea was calm. We went about 6 miles and then a wind came from the S.W. came up and briefly we experienced the largest waves of the trip so far. They were just too large however and we have to wait for things to quieten down as we have to go around a rather exposed point. Paulene writing We had high waves and southerly winds and a thunderstorm. Saw a sailboat moored in the stupidest position possible right off an exposed point of land, which is just asking for trouble. We made camp near Pt. Grondine which just lies west of the western channel where the French River pours into Georgian Bay. Friday June 21/74 We left early and had very good day, sunny and strong northerly winds. After passing the main entrance to the French River we came across a deserted fish factory complex and spent a couple of hours exploring fabulous old buildings and the bones of an old open fishing boat. The area is famous for its fishing. We stopped in at Key Harbour for supplies and talked to a young family holidaying there. Key Harbour is completely serviced by water. The railway used to come down here but no longer does. In the afternoon we had and strange experience as we saw a young guy stranded on a lonely small rocky island, with no tent or anything to protect him. He did not even have any matches, so we gave him some of ours. We found out later that these boys are left in these remote places for 7 days. They are from reform schools and I guess it's supposed to make them think and appreciate life a bit more. The young couple at the wharf had found one them crying so not knowing about the reform school thing, had rescued him and taken him to the highway to hitchhike home. We made camp in another thunder storm with lots of bugs. Saturday June 22/74 Our greatest day yet, around 30 miles. The wind blew hard from the north so we almost surfed along. The Islands out from Bayfield were beautiful and we came across the entrance Pointe au Baril which has an old lighthouse, and there must have been some fishing industries here at some stage as there are many abandoned buildings. The Ojibway islands were a very attractive area that we passed during this great day. Sunday June 23 Got going around 10am and spent a terrific day in the sunshine being pushed along by a light northerly wind. We stopped at Snug Harbour for supplies. The island we camped on now is so beautiful and we are situated on a great beige brown rock with our own bay and an island directly out front. The water so calm and pinkish as the sun sets behind us. The mosquitoes are happy with our company in the evening too. We saw two minks swimming in front of us, one having a mouse in its mouth, perhaps taking it back to hungry young mouths. We have seen lots of mother ducks with their broods, some as many as 12. Monday June 24 Last night was a dag, because we were raided by a hungry Raccoon. First off we heard him rattling around under the canoe which wasn't too bad as the food was in the tent with us. Guess what, it wasn't long before he could smell it inside with us and tried to find a way in. Harry set up a store of ammo to throw at him but each ti me Harry would get back in the tent after throwing things at him, he would come right back for another go. Harry remembered reading in one of Farley Mowatt's books of staking out a territory around his tent with his own pee, and the wolves respected that territory and would not cross it. Harry did this around our tent and coincidence or not we did not have any further trouble from Mr.. Raccoon. We stopped at San Sousi Marina Harry called his parents to let them know where we were and how we were getting along. We also saw that Samuel de Champlain had been to San Sousi before us. There are a couple of plaques commemorating their passing this way in 1615 and 1685. How neat is that. We had a terrific long day around 30 miles and did not stop until around 9pm. The mozzies were waiting for us again. We were also dive bombed by some Sea Gulls when they decided we were too close to their territory. Tuesday June 25 Set off around 10am, bright and sunny with a NE wind gently helping us on our way. We were lucky enough to get really close to a Common Merganser and her chicks, camera not accessible so no photos. Not many boats around at this time and we hope to get to Honey Harbour around noon. Not much happening at Honey Harbour except millions of moored boats but we had a good walk around. For camping we were directed to Beausoleil Island National Park not far away. We got caught in a couple of thunder showers on the way, but no problems. The facilities at the park were great and we both enjoyed a hot shower, our first in a couple of weeks. Harry lit the fire in the camp stove and we had a yummy supper, dry and sitting up at a table. In the evening we had an enjoyable time sitting around the campfire with a nice couple from Orangeville and their 15 year old son. They warned us of the Raccoons but we got away with no trouble during the night. Wednesday June 26 We woke about 8am to a calm sunny day and left around 10:30 after a big breakfast. We were both much refreshed after our touch of civilization. We hope to find a supermarket and coin wash at Port Severn later today. This was also going to be our first lock on the Trent Severn system which would take us to Trenton Ontario on the Bay of Quinte. We found out that if we registered our canoe and got numbers for each side of the bow, we could be locked through all the locks in the system. This worked well for us as we were on a 7 week trip and loaded with gear, which would make regular portages anything but simple. This first lock (for us) #45 was unique in that it is a railway lock. The lockmaster was great and no trouble for him to lock us through even though we were the only ones at the time. (more info with the photo). After shopping we had lunch and a beer with a couple in a houseboat moored next to the canoe. We were lucky to be there as there was a violent thunderstorm at the time. We camped overnight at the Marine Railway and were very impressed with the facilities at the lock and is the same at all those locks where you can stay the night. Thursday June 27 Left at 10am on a fantastic sunny warm morning. The lakes we are going through are like glass. We are actually travelling upstream now and the current does seem to slow us a bit. The two fellows who we talked to at the locks came up in their boat to see if we would like a ride and a tow, but naturally declined. We had lunch at Swift Rapids locks with a friendly old dog, but the flies drove us away. We stopped at 6pm at Lauderdale Marine which is at the South end of Sparrow Lake and lucky for us they had a coin wash, a rather run down campground though. Friday June 28 Got going late today as it was just hard to get into gear. After coming through lock 42 we were hailed by our friends in the houseboat we stopped at the next marina and had a beer with them. Sharron and Capt. Bluebeard? Later we came across a little bit of bad weather towards the end of our crossing Lake Couchiching but the majority of the crossing was OK. We found the Provincial Park at Mara point which was completely full and turning people away as this is now the July 1 weekend. Luckily for us they let us camp on the beach. Saturday June 29 Woke up in the rain but luckily there was a covered shelter near the tent so we could pack up out of the rain. We left to cross the upper part of Lake Simcoe at 9:45 and so far (halfway), it is smooth as glass, with light rain falling. Harry writing Well, the rest of the crossing was reasonable uneventful except for the rain which kept up for the crossing but we could not complain as the wind was light. At the first lock we went through, we were put in with 5 large Chris Craft Cruisers as well as two smaller runabouts. All people were friendly and we would have been drunk had we accepted all the beer that was offered to us. We managed to keep up with these folk as we went through 5 locks together. We stopped and camped at lock #37 and again met some very friendly people. Before we set up camp we paddled down to a Marina hoping to get a few groceries. Paulene just got out of the canoe when a middle aged couple came up and started to talk. They were very friendly and had been to New Zealand a number of times as he sailed with the Port Line. Paulene found there were no groceries at the Marina, so our new found friends offered to driver Paulene to a store a few miles away, and that's how we finally got our supplies. Later on as we were sitting by our tent having a coffee, another couple came by and even offered a room at their cottage for the night. Sunday June 30 We got an early start today as they were predicting rain and at 6:30am it wasn't raining yet so we decamped, had breakfast and were away by 7:30. The wind was strong but fortunately it was almost on our backs. We had quite a rough crossing of Balsam Lake as there were thunder storms all around. We arrived at the town of Rosedale on the east side of the lake and thought we would look for a Motel as it is our 7th anniversary today. As I was trying to find the owner of the Motel, the cruisers we had gone through the locks with the day before, as well as our friends on the houseboat, came through so there was much waving and hollering. The women who managed the Motel, even though they did not have any vacancies offered to put us up for the night in the old office. But she was determined to find us good accommodation and phoned all the motels in the area and finally through the Chamber of Commerce in Fenelon Falls we located a room at a Motel in Fenelon Falls. So, off we paddled to Fenelon Falls about 3 miles across Cameron Lake. It was a very rough crossing and we shipped quite a lot of water. Who did we see as we arrived but our House boat friends Stu and Sharon. We called the Motel owner and he came to the waters edge and picked us up with a lot of our gear. As Stu and Sharon were to be here for a couple of days we were able to leave our canoe on top of their boat and a lot of our gear also. Paulene writing. As this was our wedding anniversary we don't want to cook our own supper, but the only place we could find was Sims Grill. The fish and chips were fine, so we enjoyed the meal. We called in to let Stu and Sharon know where the Motel was as the wanted to call and take a shower. Monday July 1 Lovely fine day, Stu & Sharon arrived about 10 so we had coffee at the Motel restaurant while they showered. We sure had some good discussions with Stu who seems rather intelligent and quite vocal in putting his thoughts across. We sunbathed and rested until late afternoon when we walked down to the shops to buy a few things then at 7pm we went to the houseboat for supper. There was another couple invited also. Wendy and Dave, two school teachers from Toronto. We had a fabulous meal of barbecued steak, salad, breads, wine and strawberries. We felt a bit wobbly as we went back to the Motel around 11. Tuesday July 2 Woke up early and arrived at the houseboat to collect our canoe and stow our gear the coming day. Finally said goodbye about 9:30. After passing through the lock we stopped on the other side and picked up some groceries. Very wind and wet trip through Sparrow Lake especially the first half, we shipping a lot of water. Finally arrived at Bobcaygeon about 5pm where we camped at the locks. Bobcaygeon is a neat holiday type town (in summer) and we went for a nice walk and coffee in the evening. Harry painted the name Walkabout on the stern sides of our canoe. This comes from our first adventure together in Australia that we called Walkabout, a word referring to the Aboriginals of that country that often just took off into the country on an apparent whim, and the term given to that behavior was Walkabout. That night the heavens opened up and never before have we heard such loud thunder or brilliant lightning. It was really incredible, the ground almost shaking. I doubt there was one person in Bobcaygeon that slept through that one. Wednesday July3 We woke to a windy humid day so we decided to stay there for the day. Spent most of the day reading and doing a little fishing below the dam. Took a walk in the town during the afternoon, all in all a very relaxing day. Thursday July 4 Left good and early and crossed Pigeon lake with little effort in good conditions. After leaving Buckhorn a fantastic storm came up and some cottagers hailed us as we paddled by, inviting us to shelter with them until the storm abated. When we settled in with them, they mentioned a form covered over on a couch at the edge of the room. The lady said it was her mom who went through the Blitz in London during WW11, petrified when big storms like this one hit nearby. Storm ended and we continued on our way. It was a long day and we finally camped at the locks at Burleigh Falls. This is a very attractive part of Ontario as are most of the lakes in the Kawartha Lakes region. Friday July 5 Made very good time today going down Clear Lake, through Youngs Point, down Katchewanooka Lake, Passed Lakefield locks #26, seeing our old friends on "MyTwo Cyns", that we first met at Lake Simcoe. Then on down to Peterborough and it's famous lift locks, which have been here 70 years. It has been designated an Historic Site as well. We had the whole camp ground to ourselves and the view was beautiful, the trees so green with rolling hills behind. Saturday July 6 What a beautiful day, absolutely perfect for a little paddle. We left the Lift Locks around 9 and a leisurely breakfast. After a mile or so we came to Lock 20 on Little Lake. We crossed the bay to buy some groceries then came back and camped at lock 20. After lunch we went for a walk in downtown Peterborough and also went to a political meeting for Pierre Trudeau, which had an exciting atmosphere. Two days later the Liberals would secure a majority Government. Finished the day with a nice meal and leisurely evening. Sunday July 7 Left early with good weather and next camped at the Serpent Mounds Park, Rice Lake. The exhibition of the early Native Mounds was very interesting and we felt lucky to have been able to see it. Had a nice talk with a French fellow from Toronto who was also a canoeist. We had a hard day paddling before reaching Rice Lake as most of the boaters were Sunday boaties as we called them and showed little respect for us, hardly ever slowing down, so consequently the waves they created were a problem. Monday July 8 Election day today and we were so pleased we had attended the Liberal Rally for Hugh Faulkner in Peterborough, as it made us feel somewhat involved. The weather today is very hot and humid so perhaps we will get a thunderstorm soon. We had a pretty long day as we were heading for Cambellford. As usual the Lockmaster there was happy for us camp at the locks, so while I went shopping, Harry Painted 'Walkabout' on the other side of our canoe. In the late afternoon Harry went to mail my postcards to New Zealand and also to call his family in Ottawa to let them know of our progress. Well, what great news he had on returning to our camp. Apparently his old boss at the Museum had phoned his Mom telling her that there was a vacancy at the Photo Section, if he was interested. Yippeee! (I have to explain the above call from my old boss. Gerry and the crew at the photo section were sitting around at lunch playing cribbage and listening to the local Talk Show host on local Radio. The subject was something like 'How come young people were not as involved in adventures as previous generations were. Harry's Mom was also listening and decided to phone in to the program, telling the host, of her Son and wife on this long canoe trip back to Ottawa after living in NZ for a few years. She did not mention our names, but Gerry knew the callers name was Foster, so he figured this must be Harry and Paulene returning from NZ. Gerry called every Foster in the phone book until he reached Harry's Mom and gave her the message for Harry to call ASAP.) Tuesday July 9 Woke at 5:30 so were on the water by 7:30. We saw some Carp mating in the reeds and were able to get quite close to all the jumping, splashing etc. These non native fish seem to be taking over territory from the other species like Bass, Pike etc. Mostly on quiet rivers today, so have the radio going and it's good company as quiet river travel can be a tad boring because as it's so easy. Arrived at the Trenton Locks and set up camp. We told the Lock Master about leaving our canoe, tent and gear while we did a trip bus trip to Ottawa. He said no problem and would watch over our gear. I called my old boss at the Museum and he told me of the fellow who took my position on our going to NZ had left, and he had to fill that position fast, could I come back ASAP for an interview. We went to Ottawa by bus on the 11th, did the interview on the 12th. When he told me I had the job and asked how soon could I start. I told him we needed 2 weeks to finish the canoe trip. He shaking his head, said oh OK. What followed was some quick visits to family nearby and then back to Trenton Saturday morning and everything was intact. Sunday July 14 Left early, very hot weather around 90 degrees F. Had a swim at noon off an abandoned dock. Paddling quite good, just a few rough patches. Around 6:30 or so as we paddled along the south shore of the Bay of Quinte an elderly gentleman with a long beard hailed us from the shore, asking if we were looking for a place to camp. He invited us to where his dock was and said to put our tent up on the lawn behind the cottage then come in for a drink. Behind Paulene and our canoe at the dock was Angus's pride and Joy, an historic boat that he lovingly restored over a number of years. Here is that boat under sail after another restoration a number of years after the death of Angus Mowat. We did as we were told and on entering he introduced himself as Angus Mowat and introduced us to one Barbara Mowat and another lady whose name I forgot. As we were chatting and enjoying a drink, I could not help but notice photos on the walls by John de Visser. I knew John de Visser to be a friend of Farley Mowat, so shyly asked if Angus was Farley's dad. He was. Farley was one of our favorite Canadian authors. My one VERY real regret was not photographing Angus, me being too respectful and not wanting to intrude on his space. He was so interesting and has had such an incredible life, much like Farley. We have since read and thoroughly enjoyed books that he has authored. Monday July 15 Very rough windy weather but we made it to the start of Long Reach where the weather was much better with wind behind. Stopped in a cozy little possie for lunch and finally reached a provincial park where we camped. It was called Adolphstown. The park was steeped in early Loyalist history and on the property is The old Hay Bay Church dated from 1792. We had a lovely walk in the evening and stayed up chatting to other campers near us. Tuesday July 16 Got on the water at 7:30 and had a favorable wind. We had hoped to go further but found a great place to camp near the water. It was called Fairfield Historical Park and was another treasure from the Loyalist days. Featured at the park was an old house built by the Loyalists in 1793. It's great the way the different parks are centered around something of historical interest. This park had road access so there were lots of big posh trailers, RV's and loud people. Had a walk in the evening, a swing in a park and Harry climbed an old Elm tree. Wednesday July 17 Away early and took no time getting to Kingston surrounded at times with large fantastic looking sailboats. We also canoed below the walls of the famous Kingston Penitentiary, constructed in 1833. We started up the Kingston to Ottawa Canal system and go to the Kingston Mills locks, only to be told we could not camp there. Made it to the next set of locks (Lower Brewers) only to be told we could not use the washrooms. Quite a different start on this canal system compared to the Trent Severn system. Thursday July 18, 1974 (our son John would be born this day in 1983) Slept in this morning. Weather cloudy and likelihood of rain. Scenery in these lakes (Whitefish) very attractive and easy to see why they are so popular. Very pleasant day on the water, canoeing very close to a Blue Heron at one stage. We reached Chaffey's Locks later in the afternoon and camped on the point overlooking Lake Opinicon. Went to the Opinicon Lodge for a delicious and wholesome meal. (side note here as Harry and his family would come here when Harry was only 9 years old and it was a favorite spot for his dad who loved Bass fishing. Harry remembers the water in the locks being as clear as glass right to the bottom and when he and his brothers would fish in the locks, they could manoeuver their bates to the fish they wanted to catch, 10ft down in the water. Water not as clear now but still respectable.) Friday July 19 This was a long hard day as the winds were from the north and we shipped some good splashes over the front (Paulene gets those) Caught in a terrific thunderstorm on the Big Rideau Lake too, wet and a tad cold. We camped at a Marina on this lake and had a hot shower which refreshed us no end. Saturday July 20 We got a good early start, thanks to some rowdy kids from New Jersey who woke us up. :-) Another long day against a northerly wind. Went through Smiths Falls another old town on the Rideau Canal. It also features an historic railway swing Bridge, and a Railway Museum. Finally arrived at Merrickville which had a lively group of people in various cruisers moored there. Merrickville is an interesting old town full of grand and historic buildings. A very popular tourist destination for Ottawa day trippers. Sunday July 21 Left Merrickville with the first lockage at 9:30am as we were headed for Burritts Rapids to rendezvous with the Foster family for a picnic at the locks. We arrived at noon and were thrilled to see our nephews Robbie and Stephen from Montreal, as well as Mom and Dad and brother Tom, with his partner Jo Ann. We enjoyed a lovely picnic and a delicious summer punch to go with it. We lazed about the grass talking and laughing until around 4:30 when the family headed back to Ottawa and we set off for Kemptville park for the night. It turned out to be the most disappointing and unattractive campsite of the trip. Monday July 22 Left Kemptville at 9:30, and it was going to be a hot day. We had a stop at Black Rapids quite close to Ottawa. This is an attractive park setting that is popular for picnics and fishing. It was along day of approx. 29 miles and as it was the last, we were keen to get to the finish line at the National Arts Center and start our new life in Ottawa. The trip was 7 weeks and 820 miles and the seed was sown for many future holiday canoe trips following the historic Voyageur canoe routes.
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